Travel Guide: Zermatt, Switzerland

Pitch: The village of Zermatt delivers extreme peace and beauty on the Swiss/Italian border of the Alps. It's a famous (and oddly, German-speaking) alpine town at the base of the daunting peak of Matterhorn. Hit the slopes year-round or find adventure (like me) below 5,000 feet.

Arrive: By train or helicopter...anything BUT a car (you will be fined if you attempt to drive in). We drove and parked at the train station in Brig and took the Mattterhorn Express to and from Zermatt. Scenic hour and twenty minute train ride. Once you arrive, there are electric taxis, rental bikes, or even horse and buggies as modes of transportation.

Stay: At Hotel Bellerive (Riedstrasse 3) or at another one of the chic chateaus in the tiny village. We loved our room especially because it had the most comfortable bed we would sleep on for our entire two week trip. The spa in the basement is romantic, clean, and the perfect way to relax after a day of skiing or hiking. Hotel Monte Rosa (Bahnhofstrasse 80; 41-27-966-03-33; www.seiler-hotels.ch) is a little more central and across the street is the luxurious Grand Hotel Zermatterhof.

Play: Walk up to the sports store next to the Matterhorn gondola and rent all-terrain scooters. They will give you a helmet and gloves and then it's up to you to take TWO separate gondolas to the top of the trail. I admit, it was a pain sherpa-ing these scooters in and out of gondolas, but once we arrived and found the trail, the ride down was the coolest experience I've ever had. The pictures don't do it justice. You have free rein of the mountain and can go as fast (or slow) as you want. Stop to check out the waterfalls and maybe even duck into a lodge for a coffee. And don't forget a camera!

Eat lunch:  For something a bit gourmet with a lively outdoor garden where you can drink and dine, try Ristorante Seilerhaus Molino (Bahnhofstrasse). For a casual, more traditional meal (maybe a weiner and beer) grab an outdoor table at Old Zermatt Restaurant (Steinmattenstrasse).

Shop/explore: Bahnhofstrasse is the Fifth Avenue of Zermatt. You'll find fine watch and jewelry stores, couture boutiques, and galleries, among many sports apparel shops. If you didn't come with gear, you'll leave outfitted.

Relax: Time for a massage, sauna, or maybe even an afternoon drink. Most hotels have a number for a local massage therapist or in-house specialists. The Papperla Pub (Steinmattenstrasse 34) is the locals choice for a beer or cocktail.

Eat dinner: I highly recommend Myoko Teppan-Yaki & Sushi (Bahnhofstrasse). This was by far the most internationally diverse dining experience I've had. The table across from us was 4 young French women on vacation from Paris who hit it off with the couple next to them from Australia. The couple was returning to Mykoto after one year and insisted to the Teppan-Yaki chef and rest of the staff that they had been looking forward to this dinner since their last time in. The husband and wife at our station were quiet until we asked them about the tasting menu they ordered. After we initiated the conversation, they jumped right into speaking English to us about Zermatt (they're locals) and the excellent restaurants. The food stood up to the rave reviews. Sushi is sushi (Mykoto's was fresh and delicate) and the chicken terriyaki was authentic and delicious. We can't wait to go back. 

Entertainment: Option 1: A movie at Vernissage - it's actually a bar, art gallery, restaurant, and movie theater (Hofmattstrasse 4). Option 2: Like quirky bar with live music? Head to The Hotel Post (Bahnhofstrasse). Option 3: Dancing, drinking, and debauchery at the Broken Bar Disco. Option 4: Club it til your legs collapse at Schneewittchen (next to Papperla Pub). Option 5: Get in your cozy bed and watch a DVD from the hotel's video library. Can you guess what I chose? ;)

Travel Guide: Cinqueterre, Italy

Pitch: 5 quaint towns along the Italian Riviera connected by miles of trails over the mountains and through the vineyards of Cinqueterre. A must see if you are in Northern Italy (or anywhere close). Every picture you take will make you feel like a professional photog.

Stay: In Monterosso al Mare (we stayed at Hotel Palme). The town has a little more bustle and lots of beach. I also appreciated the variety of cafes and restaurants. The other 3 villages are quieter and really chill and Vernazza is in between.

Play: Spend the morning swimming, lounging and sunbathing at Bagni Eden beach club (Via Fegina, 7-11; 39-0187-818-256). A few euro will get you a colorful chaise and use of their changing rooms. There’s no better way to enjoy a morning by the sea.

Eat lunch:  Enoteca 5 Terre di Sassarini Giancarlo (Via Fegina, 94; 39-0187-818-063) Toast your arrival with a little Franciacorta, then try the local sauvignon blanc. Nice bruscettas, pastas, and carpaccios.

Walk/hike: From Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza. Bring water, sunscreen, a camera, and supportive sandals or sneakers. Takes about 2 hours. Breathtaking journey over mountains and through vineyards...even though we had no water and donned flimsy flip flops.

Relax: Upon arrival stop for a few scoops of gelato and find some shade to watch the ferries come in and out of a rocky port. There are tons of cafes to people watch and sip on wine.

Home: Catch the train or ferry back to Monterosso al Mare. They’re constantly coming and going.

Eat dinner: L'Ancora della Tortuga (Salita Cappuccini, 6; 39-0187-800-065). Reserve an outdoor table for 8:30/9 - or right around dusk. The restaurant is a converted bunker...cool AND romantic. Can’t go wrong with the catch of the day and the scampi.

Stroll: L’Ancora della Tortuga is at the opposite end of Monterosso al Mare so enjoy a leisurely walk back to your hotel along Via Fegina. And who says you can’t have gelato twice in one day?!

Online Dating (for your house)

My fiancee and I just got back from the South of France. The trip was fantastic. But the way we chose the destination for our vacation deserves somes attention.

We listed our home in Newport Beach, CA on a website called HomeExchange.com, where (as the name suggests) people "exchange homes".  The process of listing our place was actually quite fun. You pay a $99 annual membership fee, and then proceed to upload pics of your house and your neighborhood. It really kinds of feels like you're writing a personals listing for your home! And most people give some info on the owners as well (which is important since most people, rightly so, want to know about the people they are potentially lending their home to).

Here's our listing:

http://homeexchange.com/show.php?id=101355

After we finished and posted the listing, we were blown away by home many inquires or "exchange requests" we received. From all over the world. Major cities in Italy, Spain, and France. London, Aspen, Stockholm - the list goes on! The site allows you to specify where you're looking to go, but we kept ours fairly open since we weren't exactly sure where we wanted to travel (although France and Australia were high on our wish list). Plus, the element of a little serendipity was appealing as well.

After evaluating all of the inquiries, we ultimately chose to exchange with a nice couple from London who own a vacation home in St. Jean Cap Ferrat (an exclusive little enclave in the French Riviera). According to the pictures and description (http://homeexchange.com/show.php?id=89062) it was an adorable two bedroom apartment about a hundred yards from the beach, with views of the Mediterranean.  Upon arriving we were relieved and actually pleasantly surprised that the place felt even better than advertised! 

We had such an amazing vacation. One of the best things about doing a home exchange v. staying in a hotel/resort, besides saving around $10,000+ (14 nights x at least $600/night plus all those annoying taxes, egregious parking fees, restaurant/room service...) is the fact that it forces you to have a different kind of experience.  You're staying in a home, with a kitchen, and end up shopping a the locals markets every morning, and cooking in many nights. For us, we ended up feeling like we really got a much more intimate feel of the town and the people.

I highly recommend Home Exchange for your next vacation.  (And if you happen to have a place in Australia and want to visit Southern California...let me know!)

Trip Hero: GARMIN Navigation (Europe Chip)

We get lost more in Orange County then we did driving through Europe with our GARMIN navigation system. I ordered the Euro chip on Amazon before we left and, to our amazement, it never failed. Every nameless road, hairpin turn, tunnel, and freeway showed up. It even directed us to one of Cinqueterre's five (practically car-free) villages, Monterosso al Mare. 

If we had attempted following paper maps, printed directions, or even signs, there would have been many wasted hours, tears, and probably vomit. I'm truly thankful for this technology. If you have a trip planned, make sure your rental car has this device or some comparable navigation.

Disposable Sunglasses

Urban Outfitters is having a huge sale right now and all of their sunglasses are 1/2 off or $10! Take my advice if you aim to stay in style and save some money and heartache. You just may never buy $300 sunglasses again.

Urban Outfitters has tons of great frames in every color imaginable. They never have cheap fake designer letters or logos. And inspiration ranges from Jackie O to Kanye West. I dropped $40 on these 4 pairs which I think are pretty nice. And if you're still not sold, here's 3 more reasons:

1. If you lose them you're not upset for a week

2. If you loan them to a friend and they come back damaged, or never come back, there's no harm to the friendship

3. It's really fun when someone loves your glasses and you can offer to give yours to them on the spot

City v. Country

This is an overly generalized post. Want to get this thought down though. I think it's important to know if you're a city or country person.

CITY = bustle, buzz, small, expenses, fashion, creative, proximity

COUNTRY = slow, peace, nature, big spaces, savings, comfort

There's convenience and inconvenience to both. As well as competitive economies. Governing bodies and extracurricular activities. Families and friends. Social ladders. Poor and rich. Skirts, suits, and white tee-shirts. Jeans.

We're all working, shopping, eating, drinking, sleeping, and (hopefully) loving and being loved.

Choose to live your life where you feel comfortable. City? Country? That perfect place in between? I truly believe we can survive anywhere so, if this is the case, you might as well live a happier life by surviving in a location you prefer*.

*Friends, family, career and other factors play a role but sometimes it's healthy to think about questions in absence of these factors. You can always include them later and reevaluate.

Cafe Americain

I did not see ONE Starbucks in Nice/Cote D'Azur. Not during our cameos in Northern Italy or the Swiss Alps either. I loved this but can understand that some of my friends would be disappointed. Here's what I recommend to those who travel to Europe and are longing for 16 oz. of coffee:

1) Manage your expectations. Accept going in that coffee (and really everything) is not consumed in mass quantities.

2) Order a coffee called a cafe americain. It's a double shot of expresso served with a side of hot water. Barely bitter with rich cocoa notes. I know it doesn't seem like "much", but after you add a little water and cream/sugar, to your liking, I can almost guarantee you will enjoy the flavor and feel content with this size serving. (I was taken by surprise too as my usual order at Rose's Bakery is a medium Hawaiian Hazelnut coffee with two shots of espresso.)

Finesse

I love this word and use it prudently when describing a wine and, literally, when describing Roger Federer's tennis game.

Small v. Big

Everything in Europe feels small. I could have told anyone this since my first trip overseas when I was 10, but living life "small" again differs drastically from the memory.

Being present in the small life awakens your senses and sends a shock to your quantitative comfort zones. Streets, and therefore cars, are small. Objectively, I think I'm a small female and I barely fit in the showers. A glass of wine is 25cl (or 4oz) poured to the line. A cafe americain is a double espresso you can choose to add water too if you desire more volume at the expense of concentration.

I love this.

It forces me to slow down and enjoy. I passionately do not want to waste. I'm exponentially more satisfied. And, in most cases, the quality is higher than the larger, less expensive version that's easily accessible in the US. I appreciate the luxury of this access and infrastructure, but I'm going to try to exercise more discipline in the quantity to quality ratio in my life. But it is nice to have this choice (and the reawakened awareness to choose to do so).

Undercover

I learned after one morning that French women don't wear tee-shirts. Period. If you don't want to be seen (and sadly, treated) like an American, the first step you can take is not dressing like one.

Bonjour, Saint Jean Cap Ferrat

Holiday

The blog may be quiet for awhile as Michael and I are about to explore the French Riviera and neighboring destinations in Italy and Switzerland. After about a week of research, here is our plan:

Home base: Cap Ferrat

Day trips: Monaco, Monte Carlo, St. Tropez

Trip within trip: Cinqueterre, Milan, Zermatt

Brilliant excuse to stay overseas two more days: London

Any recommendations on restaurants, bars, attractions, 6 mile running routes, parks, live music venues, etc. are taken to heart. Thank you and see you in a few weeks!

Stoned Immaculate

A favorite Jim Morrison track and the theme of this post.

I recently tasted the best wines of my life. Also the oldest. This ultrasensory and wildly potent encounter was elating and overwhelming.

After the moment in time to feel the joy from these wines passed, the memory summons peaceful content. I'm craving nothing. No Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc at the jacuzzi. Not even a splash of Dolcetto d'Alba while watching the sunset. 

In time, my appreciation for (and delight in) more simple, younger, primary wines will return. I just need to be patient. I'm sure most people who have an ultimate experience in their field of passion have a similar reaction.

After I Tasted '98 La Turque

My whole wine world changed...

This Burgundy girl has a new French crush.

Voices For Children

Last night I volunteered to pour at the Voices For Children fundraiser...a 100 point wine tasting event at the gorgeous home of Jori Potiker and Michael Brown in Rancho Santa Fe. I was lucky enough to get to pour AND TASTE, as a friend was not able to make the event at the last minute.

Steve, Woody (thanks for the picture), and I were busy at the "France" table where we poured 1982 & 2000 Chateau Leoville-Las Cases, 1990 Chateau Latour, 2000 Chateau Pavie, 1989 La Misson Haut Brion, 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1998 Domaine de Marcoux CdP VV, 1998 Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque, and 1991 Chapoutier Cote Rotie la Mordoree.

My personal favorites were the Latour and La Turque. Thought the Mouton was starting to fall and the 2000 Pavie was a little big for me. 2000 Leoville was still young but perfect for those who love indulging in the primary flavors of Bordeaux.

I bounced around a few more tables after the tasting finished. Other standouts were the 1994 Bryant Family Cabernet (much more delicate and disciplined than the other cabs present 97 Shafer Hillside Select, 03 & 05 Quilceda Creek, etc). My favorite part of this event was that everyone got a card with assigned wines for a 1.5 ounce pour. I loved that there was no rush and you could taste in the order you prefer. The wines were well distributed so everyone got a taste of France (Bordeaux & Rhone), Italy (Barolo & Brunello), and the newbees (Cab & Shyrah/Shiraz). Thanks for planning a fabulous event, Robin. Hopefully, a lot of money was raised for this great charity! 

Judge Hutnick

I had my first experience judging wine today at the Orange County Home Wine Competition. Local wine makers made submissions to the following categories: red and white (single varietal or blend), fruit, and dessert. I judged 21 sangioveses and 8 barberas. At the home wine level, I was looking for

1) balance of fruit, acid, alcohol, and tannin

and

2) the wine to exhibit the nose and flavor profile of the varietal*

My panel agreed that there were a handful that achieved both - some more gracefully than others. We tasted and scored for three hours with no major breaks. My sense of smell and taste became fatigued around the 25th wine, so under 30 wines in 3 hours was about right to ensure fair and consistent results. I'm glad I was assigned to judge local expressions of varietals I normally only drink from Italy. It really made me appreciate what a talented winemaker can achieve (close to) anywhere in the world.

Thanks to all of the friendly people who said hi to the "new judge" and made me feel so welcome. And to the Miller family who showed me the ropes, Jan for the picture above, and John for his jacket. Hope to see you all next year!

*(we had one sangiovese that was well made wine that tasted great...but it tasted like zinfandel)

Blau Blau

Kathleen and John threw another food and wine bash on Wednesday night to properly bid safe travels to our friend Steve (who's about to globe trot for the next 3 weeks!). With two somms present, Luca and I tried to make sure everyone always had a few glasses in front of them as we enjoyed our appetizer, salad, pasta d'Luca, grilled tenderloin, and chocolate souffle. 

Here was the official lineup. Favorites were the vintage PJ and the Blau & Blau (or everyone just loved saying "Blau Blau"). This patio was rockin for a school night:

Gosset, Brut Excellence, Ay, France

Perrier Jouet, Cuvee Belle Epoque, Côte des BlancsMontagne de Reims, France, 1999

Cascina Bongiovanni, Arneis, Langhe, Italy, 2007

Mark West, Pinot Noir, California, 2007

Silvio Jermann's Mjzzu Blau & Blau, 90% Franconia and 10% Pinot Nero, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2006

Tetre de Moulin, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Saint Emilion (Grand Cru), Bordeaux, France, 2006  

Age

I don't care about age, just attitude. I'm always thrown off guard when another adult will say to me "I must be as old as your parents" or "I could be your grandfather." There's just not much to be gained from this quantitative comparison and I never know what to say back. My parents and grandparents are positive, hard-working, selfless, loving people. Yes, they're "family", but I want to be around anyone, any age, that lives life so passionately.

What Would Google Do?

I just started reading "What Would Google Do" by Jeff Jarvis. Here is my favorite quote so far. He uses these sentences to explain how to reevaluate your method of attracting customers to take advantage of the power (and necessity) of "thinking distributed" in the context of the web:

"People draw their me-sphere with themselves at the center and everyone else - especially those who want their money - on the outside. That's how companies and institutions should view themselves: on the outside, asking to come in."

Google has provided a platform to enable anyone and anything to get distributed. It's a tool to get your potential customers to the destination or content they are seeking as efficiently as possible.

So figure out how to ask your customers to come in, not make them. Turn over traditional, centralized advertising theory and find out what people may ask to find you...need you...want you! Your own homepage is important, but nowhere close to the breadth of pages featuring links to your homepage. Apply your resources here and grow. Fast.

This thinking can be applied by companies and institutions, but also by anyone with an audience. I don't want your money; however, I do want your time - the time it takes to read my blog. I'm inspired to find other content on the web that I think you value and start distributing "Breathe Air & Drink Wine" there. Please leave a comment with your favorite sites to help me get started. Thank you!

Wine Gallery

This is the best tasting room and wine shop in Corona Del Mar. I walked up last night to taste a few whites and reds and planned to return home, but the night took a turn for the better! I met a group that was having a reunion (UCLA) and chose Wine Gallery as their first stop for the night. Now scattered along the California coastline from San Francisco to San Diego, they see each other a few times a year - but it's clear they're all still close and always out to have a good time. We started talking about wine at the bar and the next thing you know we're polishing off a '05 Boillot (1er, Les Epenottes) burg, indulging in Crow Bar's melt-in-your-mouth lamb shank, and Chip's telling the famous "Del Taco story." That's a pretty strong ending to a random Monday night in CDM.

Focus

On Saturday, Michael (in hot pursuit of a WSOP bracelet and big win) boldly tested his skills against the best players on this planet. Yesterday he played in a World Series of Poker tournament in Las Vegas for over 12 hours. His focus, patience, 6th sense (a gut instinct he trusts), and a little luck made him one of 720, out of 6,000, players to make it to Day 2! 

Very impressive, Landau :)

Why Unique?

Why do we strive for unique thinking or experiences? 

To entertain this mental exercise, my reasoning immediately jumps to the human need for attention and praise. Westerners are programmed to be comforted by the attention our uniqueness may foster. One must be an outlier for sustainable success down this path to praise. And if you're not? Is your fate the mundane?

Yes.

It sounds awful, but it's not. You're human and can bond with other humans by having relatable goals, fears, dreams, frustrations, hopes, and vices. Live with your everyday experiences which enable this ability. The life of a sevant can be lonely. I've found the most satisfying way to feed my ego (we all have to) is by capturing someone's attention through connection.

$4 < House Wine > $12

I keep the following bottles at home to open on casual occasions. They are easy to drink as they are or pair with food. I like to keep my posts short and sweet, so I didn't write tasting notes for these, but I'm happy to add them at your request. Trader Joe's offers this list at these prices. They sell at such low margins that they don't do 1/2 case or case discounts like Whole Foods and other wine shops. I've seen these bottles at other stores for a buck or two more - not a big deal, but for such low priced wine they just tacked on another 20%!

Domaine Ste. Michelle: Brut and Blanc de Noirs

Traditional Method, Colombia Valley, Washington, $6.99

Picton Bay: Sauvignon Blanc (12.5%)

2008, Marlborough, New Zealand, $6.99

Trader Joe's Coastal Syrah (13.8%)

2006, California, $3.99

La Loggia: Barbera D'Alba DOC (14%)

2007, Alba, Piedmont, Italy, 2007 $6.99

Castle Rock: Pinot Noir (13.8%)

2007, Mendocino County, California, $9.99

Robert Hall: Cabernet Sauvignon (14%)

2006, Paso Robles, California, $11.99

Liberty School (second label of the famous/cult Napa cab Caymus): Cabernet Sauvignon (14%)

2006, Paso Robles, California, $11.99

Great Wine Under $14

Brad and I visited Roger, ChrisAnn, and Drew at Wine Lab last night to pick up a few bottles for his party. I always tell my friends there is a ton of great wine to drink between $8 and $14 (I'll do another post with some more bottles in this range). When I think about paying that much for a cocktail or one mediocre glass at a bar, I'm especially inspired to bring a few bottles to a gathering and open everything just to show how well anyone can drink! Last night we enjoyed bubbles from France and Spain and a refreshing white from California:

Varichon & Clerc Privilege, Blanc De Blancs, Brut, Methode Champenoise, France, $14

Awesome value. Drinks nicely and has the apple and (approachable) toasty notes you'd expect. Complex and flavorful for the price.

Cristalino Cava, Brut, Traditional Method (secondary fermentation in bottle), Spain, $11

This is such a clean, citrus focused sparkler. Taste this side by side with the Varichon & Clerc. V&C's toasty and leesey notes will be much more pronounced while the Cristalino's perky acidity, bubbles, and sour apple will define this cava. 

Valdez, Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County, California, 2006, $13

Surprisingly sublte, integrated oak for the price. Normally I stick to Marlborough and the Loire Valley for this varietal, but this is a tangy, tropical version from Sonoma that will be a crowd pleaser.

Squash Blossoms

What a treat! I bought some at the farmer's market in Corona Del Mar this morning. They are such a pretty and delicate addition to a salad. So glad I finally tried them.

Do What You Can

This sweeping generalization differs for everyone. Having recently been prescribed rest to get better, I've been thinking about the concept.

I tell myself I can accept that no one is superhuman, well maybe Madonna. But, for some reason, I recently worked myself up to a state of hyperproductivity that stressed out my immune system (resulting in shingles). This virus was not fun, so it became a priority to figure out how I could prevent it from recurring. Here's what I came up with...

It's always going to feel good to accomplish a task, educate your mind, and take steps to improve your life. Unfortunately, for some, this can mutate into extreme expectations and guilt-ridden down time. I took the basics for granted and pushed mental and physical energy to the limit. I can talk and write about "keeping it simple." And learned the hard way that there's no benefit to that attitude without execution. 

So, do what you can. Be uniquely human. Exercise your strengths and accept your weaknesses at capacity. I'm trying now. 

Mama's Boy

My nephew, Grant. What a face.