Brunello di Montalcino

Poggio Antico 2001 Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino, 13.5% abv

Very elegant expression of sangiovese. Winemaker's major attention to detail in fruit selection results in a complex and balanced wine. They even note the specifics of the barrel aging on the bottle (5 years in 500-liter French oak tonneaux then 21/2 in traditional Slovenian oak). Opened it on the earlier side...the wine could use another year or two in the bottle, but still shows quite well with some deep breathing. (Maybe we all show a little better with some deep breathing.)

Travel Guide: Milan, Italy

Pitch: This is a city to get dressed for. Italy’s Fashion capital to see and be seen, shop, drink, and (maybe) eat. Everyone is svelte. The men wear suits and the women, dresses. Break up the villages and beach hopping with the pulse of city life!

Stay: Close to the Duomo or Castello Sforzesco – both are very central so it’s easy to get around by foot. We chose Hotel Spadari by the Duomo. I loved this place. Complimentary waters and non-alcoholic beverages (it’s the little things...), contemporary, yet comfortable design throughout the hotel, AND the bartender is very generous lady.

Walk/shop: Hit the ground running by strolling around Piazza Duomo and taking in it’s grandeur. Then continue up Vittorio Emanuele II toward Piazza Babila and the fashion district. Take Corso up to Milan’s most famous street...Via Della Spiga. You will find every luxury brand and Italian label imaginable lining this quiet, pedestrian-only cobblestone street. Window shoppers allowed but I would only go into stores if you intend to make a purchase.

Eat lunch: We ventured to BVLGARI hotel from Via Della Spiga to tour the brand’s new extension into hospitality. You’ll find the hotel in a quiet corner of Via Gabba, right off of Via Monte Di Pieta. It’s a stunning property, but only have lunch here if you are (or spend money like) a rockstar or Swiss banker. We are not either, but did enjoy the small plates of sashimi, langoustine nicoise, lobster and melon salad, and a few glasses of wine. The highlight of the extreme world we stumbled upon in the backyard of the Brera was the nine euro Diet Coke...not my order. That’s what vacations are for!

Fit in: We then stumbled upon the SoHo of Milan (where we should have had lunch) where we were suddenly engulfed in the city’s locals – and their energy. We would end up returning to this area for happy hour and dinner but just walked through the first time to get a feel for the neighborhood. The best route is Via Brera to Via Fiore Chiari.

Sight see: Take Via Fiore Chiari towards Piazza Castello. Here you will find the impressive Castello Sforzesco. The grounds are open to everyone and once you walk through the castle there is a giant park. This is a nice time to take a rest on the grass or scout out some gelato.

Admire: If you can dream of the Harrod’s of food, I will tell you it exists. In Milan. It’s a fine food and beverage emporium called PECK. Fate has it that the shop was right next to my hotel (corner of Spadari and Torino), otherwise I may have never encountered this paradise. Coffees, teas, chocolates, fish, meat, oils, vinegars, a bakery, and jaw-dropping wine cellar. They also have their own bar and restaurant a stone’s throw away. Dining there will be a priority on my next visit.

Nap:  The days and nights are long in Milan, and you will do a lot of walking so I highly recommend a nap. Happy hours start around 7 and the streets really don’t get bustling again until 8. Dinner at 9 is considered early. So take your time and relax.  Even if you’re back out at 7, you still have two hours of exploring until dusk (in the summer).

Drink/snack: We returned to the Brera for a few drinks and some small plates before dinner. We found a great table at Bar Brera (corner of Via Brera and Via Fiore Chiari). The place was packed and after peoplewatching for twenty minutes, we decided we had stumbled on the crossroads of the city. Families, tourists, locals, stilettos on cobblestone, three piece suits, bums, beers, martinis, and champagne :)

Eat dinner: Our concierge recommended the restaurant Nabucco on Via Fiore Chiari. SO we walked a few streets from Bar Brera and settled in to a cozy table inside (outside was booked). Michael had the best lasagna “of his life” and I ate potatoes for the first time in years (they were roasted in this delicious white wine sauce that plated the scampi). They have a great wine list too as well as a selection of half bottles.

Stroll: Back to your hotel or hop in a taxi if you happen to catch a few raindrops like us.

Other Recs: Gucci Cafe, Nobu Armani (connected to a hot night club), Teatro alla Scala (famous Opera House)

Travel Guide: Cinqueterre, Italy

Pitch: 5 quaint towns along the Italian Riviera connected by miles of trails over the mountains and through the vineyards of Cinqueterre. A must see if you are in Northern Italy (or anywhere close). Every picture you take will make you feel like a professional photog.

Stay: In Monterosso al Mare (we stayed at Hotel Palme). The town has a little more bustle and lots of beach. I also appreciated the variety of cafes and restaurants. The other 3 villages are quieter and really chill and Vernazza is in between.

Play: Spend the morning swimming, lounging and sunbathing at Bagni Eden beach club (Via Fegina, 7-11; 39-0187-818-256). A few euro will get you a colorful chaise and use of their changing rooms. There’s no better way to enjoy a morning by the sea.

Eat lunch:  Enoteca 5 Terre di Sassarini Giancarlo (Via Fegina, 94; 39-0187-818-063) Toast your arrival with a little Franciacorta, then try the local sauvignon blanc. Nice bruscettas, pastas, and carpaccios.

Walk/hike: From Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza. Bring water, sunscreen, a camera, and supportive sandals or sneakers. Takes about 2 hours. Breathtaking journey over mountains and through vineyards...even though we had no water and donned flimsy flip flops.

Relax: Upon arrival stop for a few scoops of gelato and find some shade to watch the ferries come in and out of a rocky port. There are tons of cafes to people watch and sip on wine.

Home: Catch the train or ferry back to Monterosso al Mare. They’re constantly coming and going.

Eat dinner: L'Ancora della Tortuga (Salita Cappuccini, 6; 39-0187-800-065). Reserve an outdoor table for 8:30/9 - or right around dusk. The restaurant is a converted bunker...cool AND romantic. Can’t go wrong with the catch of the day and the scampi.

Stroll: L’Ancora della Tortuga is at the opposite end of Monterosso al Mare so enjoy a leisurely walk back to your hotel along Via Fegina. And who says you can’t have gelato twice in one day?!

Cafe Americain

I did not see ONE Starbucks in Nice/Cote D'Azur. Not during our cameos in Northern Italy or the Swiss Alps either. I loved this but can understand that some of my friends would be disappointed. Here's what I recommend to those who travel to Europe and are longing for 16 oz. of coffee:

1) Manage your expectations. Accept going in that coffee (and really everything) is not consumed in mass quantities.

2) Order a coffee called a cafe americain. It's a double shot of expresso served with a side of hot water. Barely bitter with rich cocoa notes. I know it doesn't seem like "much", but after you add a little water and cream/sugar, to your liking, I can almost guarantee you will enjoy the flavor and feel content with this size serving. (I was taken by surprise too as my usual order at Rose's Bakery is a medium Hawaiian Hazelnut coffee with two shots of espresso.)

Holiday

The blog may be quiet for awhile as Michael and I are about to explore the French Riviera and neighboring destinations in Italy and Switzerland. After about a week of research, here is our plan:

Home base: Cap Ferrat

Day trips: Monaco, Monte Carlo, St. Tropez

Trip within trip: Cinqueterre, Milan, Zermatt

Brilliant excuse to stay overseas two more days: London

Any recommendations on restaurants, bars, attractions, 6 mile running routes, parks, live music venues, etc. are taken to heart. Thank you and see you in a few weeks!