UGC 2007 Vintage Bordeaux Tasting (hosted by Wally's at The Annex, Los Angeles)

As I sit down to write about this event I think it only appropriate to give you some context:

2009’s UGC 2006 vintage Bordeaux tasting was the first “big city” tasting I didn’t work (and by work I mean pour for free for a producer for a chance to taste some wines at the end). I had just moved to California and bought my ticket online, having no idea what to expect. I drove up to LA…it was my first time on the 405 (scary)…and my first time trying to park there (circled the InterContinental twice before parking in the Century City mall garage). I threw on a dress in the car and proudly fixed my sommelier pin to its collar. I hadn’t started the blog yet, so I guess I was there to improve my palate for Bordeaux wines – and maybe meet a fellow corkdork. Hiking up to the InterContinental from the mall garage, I felt prepared, but still nervous. The night before and that morning, I spent studying the characteristics of the different appellations and the top chateaux, but when it came to navigating a large tasting with strangers, it was best to just try to enjoy those few minutes of anticipation…

Suddenly, the holding room was crowded, I was sweating and casually talking to someone about the turnout. I was really just trying to watch what was about to go down. The receptionists were then given the signal to open the doors and we were off to the races. After checking in, I grabbed my glass, smelled it (because I saw everyone else doing that), and headed to the whites, which were stationed to the front left of the room. I didn’t even see there was a price list. Just went by my study guide and made my way from the whites, to right bank Bordeaux, to left bank, and then to Sauternes (or what was left). I took my time, scribbled notes, spit, ate some bread, used the restroom, and drank lots of water. It was a very modest, educational experience.

As you’ve probably guessed by now, this year I will write a different story. Probably because I feel different. My head is in another place - one that has me constantly thinking about my family before myself and trying to make the right decisions about participating in extracurricular activities, like wine tastings.

Sunday night, I buy the ticket at the last minute (secretly hoping the event will sell out so I’m not even tempted to go). I spend every hour before the event working on Drybar tee-shirt designs and Sponsorship Packages. I hail a cab on Santa Monica and call a friend on the walk up to The Annex to meet him in line. I take a look at the price sheet, circle a few chateaux and then ask my friends who they recommend tasting. I swallow and get a little buzz. I’ll give a list below of some flawlessly balanced, fineFINE wines, but no details. I can email them to you, if you like.

The point of this post is that like many physical things in life, my experience with them becomes less about a myopic personal encounter, and more about enjoying the opportunity this thing presents to bring human beings together. Offline.

On Wednesday night, I was in a large, loud room with PEOPLE. Looking into their eyes, backing into them (sorry), feeling their wine spit backsplash in my face, grinning at them with purple teeth, shaking their hands, and giving high fives (like I tend to do after a glass or two).

This made me beyond happy. Yes, the wines were outstanding, but it was also the environment they were tasted in that made me crave awareness for those two hours. Every time I tried to put my head down and take detailed notes, a conversation would start or a friend would say “hi.” This was a time to step away from the minutia and appreciate how fortunate I was to be there.

Thank you to the following chateaux who poured me outstanding wines (I felt bad even putting one and two stars next to some, but had to give them a little credit for somehow standing out among their peers):

M A R G A U X

Chateau Las Combes**

Chateau Rauzan-Segla

P A U I L L A C

Chateau Clerc Milon*

Chateau Lynch-Bages*

Chateau Pontet-Canet*

P E S S A C - L E O G N A N

Chateau Haut-Bailly**

Chateau Pape Clement (blanc and rouge*)

Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte (blanc and rouge*)

Domaine de Chevalier (blanc* and rouge)

P O M E R O L (HAD TO TRY THEM ALL...)

Chateau Clinet*

Chateau Gazin

Chateau La Cabanne

Chateau Conseillante**

S A I N T - E M I L I O N (GRAND CRU)

Chateau Angelus**

Chateau Canon-La-Gaffeliere

Chateau La Gaffeliere

Chateau Troplong Mondot

Clos Fourtet**

S A I N T - J U L I E N

Chateau Beychevelle*

Chateau Gruaud Larose**

Chateau Talbot*

Italian Sommeliers Association Grand Tasting

This was a trade tasting put on by the Italian Sommeliers Association at Trastevere in Santa Monica. I had the privilege of being invited to taste and write about the wines I was able to taste. Thanks to the Principe Prosciutto di San Deniele for the melt-in-your-mouth prosciutto and breseaola and Ca’D’Oro olive bread which makes me look forward to working in LA that much more...

N O T E

G U I D E :

Winery, Appellation, Name, Grape, Vintage

B U B B L E S :

Banear, Prosecco, Prosecco Frizzante, prosecco, NV

- slightly sparkling, uncork with a corkscrew, crisp, refreshing, lower alcohol (harvest earlier at lower sugar levels), pleasant acidity, not cloying whatsoever

Caposaldo, Veneto IGT, N/A, prosecco, NV

- clean, bright, no cider element (which can bug me in some proseccos) and a but more complex, considering ordering for my wedding

W H I T E S :

Vignalta, Colli Euganei, Sirio Muscato, 100% dry muscat (fully fermented), 2007

- gorgeous + inviting nose, nice mouthfeel, complex white, bitter honey finish

Pescaja, Roero Arneis DOCG, N/A, arneis, 2008

- round, floral, wild herbs, more complex than other expressions of the varietal at the tasting

- world cultures nugget: still locally called “nebbiolo bianco” in Piedmonte

Butussi, Colli Orientali del Friuli, N/A, sauvignon blanc, 2007

- lush wine, very different from both Napa and Marlborough, some vanilla but also crisp, melon, fresh pineapple

- my two cents: I’m always impressed by Friulian sauv blancs and whites in general...there should be more on wine lists (and by the glass)

Carraia, N/A, Carraia, fiano di Sicilia, 2008

- rich winter white, honey, anise, minerals, wine with depth, complexity, and crispness...intriguing

R E D S :

Batasiolo, Alba DOC, Sovrana, barbera,2007

- single vineyard barbera, softer, a primary plus young wine

- my two cents: single vineyard well-made barberas like this one are worth the small premium, especially when compared to young, rough nebbiolos (and usually better value than young barolos if you are buying to drink now)

Cavaliere, Puglia, N/A, sangiovese, 2009

- elegant, integrated, full-bodied, young but well-made

Carria, Sicilia, N/A, aglianico, 2008

- pretty, easy drinking young red, gentle tannin, flavors of black fruit, dark chocolate, approachable acidity and minerality

- pronunciation nugget: the indigenous Italian varietal, aglianico, is pronounced ahl-YAHN-eh-koe

Bibi Graetz Soffocone di Vincigliata, Tosacana, N/A, N/A, 2007

- single vineyard, fine tannin, tart red fruits, delicious with the prosciutto and olive bread

Cantine Sant’Agata, Ruche di Castagnole, Na Vota, ruche, 2007

- a new varietal for me, very impressive: complex, distincitive, raspberry, herbs, great value for wine’s substance

- quick question: “Who drinks ruche?!” (LOVE IT!! I’m so excited to have tried this wine)

Michele Chiarlo, Barolo DOCG, Cannubi, nebbiolo, 2004

- lovely, signature barolo notes, one of the few wines I couldn’t bare to spit

Tenuta di Corllosorbo, Brunello di Montalcino, Brunello, sangiovese, 2004

- roses, red berries, nice balance, (relatively) soft tannin, delicate, had to swallow this one too... :)

Batasiolo, Barolo DOCG (Serralunga), Corda Della Briccolina, nebbiolo, 2003

- Stefano Poggi was pouring the 2003 at the tasting and I had the pleasure of enjoying the 2004 last year at a dinner with him and Fiorenzo Dogliani at CarneVino in Las Vegas after wine Spectator’s Grand Tasting. These are excellent wines that will mature gracefully overtime. If I had to compare, I would recommend the ‘04, but it doesn’t take a genius to recommend a stellar vintage...

Pinot Days, SoCal 2010

Yesterday was my first time attending "Pinot Days", a New World pinot noir tasting, focusing on producers from the glorious west coast of the United States of America. I can be...hmmm...picky (to say it nicely), when it comes to New World pinot noir, liberally using adjectives like "hot," "thin," and "poor value." This tasting offered up the opportunity use some new adjectives. Many of the wines were from the acclaimed 2007 vintage. The single varietal element of "Pinot Days" let me focus on the terroir and style of winemaking for the day's showcase of producers. I was generously granted a trade ticket (thank you!) and took advantage of the extra time I had to take thorough notes. Hope to participate in this tasting for many more years!

With that intro...here goes :)

B E S T

I N

S H O W

Baxter

California, Mendocino, Oppelander Vineyard

Vintage: 2007

Notes: fresh bing cherries, violets, roses, integrated acidity and alcohol, well balanced Richebourg-ish wine of great character and intensity

Comments: The "Phils" (father and son winemaking team) were awesome. Wish I could drink high quality pinot like this more often. I'm looking forward to visiting the estate and getting to know Phil and Phil Jr. better!

Pisoni

California, Santa Lucia Highlands, "Estate" label

Vintage: 2007

Notes: red and dark fruits - tart, dried, and ripe, roses (again!), subtle tea, captivating balance of fruit, alcohol, acidity, and damn fine tannin

Comments: A graceful, yet bold, wine from start to finish. Dances its way across the palate, not missing a beat. Just lovely. Gary and Ed, pleasure to meet you. Gary, thank you for loving and studying Burgundy. Your wine reflects great attention to detail in your vineyard and appreciation of terroir.

George Wine Company

California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, "RRV V"

Vintage: 2007

Notes: raspberries, red currants, tea, bramble, leaves, potpourri, great balance and palate-forgiving (relatively) low alcohol: 13.5%

(Pause for analogy: George's RRV V is the quiet girl at the party with no makeup. She's polite. She listens, smiles sweetly, and watches the guests' interactions. At the end of the night, you get the guts to talk to her and now you're the one who's speechless.)

Comments: I loved George wines after my first taste at Marche Bacchus when I was living in Vegas a few years ago. At the time, I didn't study or write about wine. I just disliked, liked, or loved what I tasted. I am still loving George's pinots and enjoyed putting a name (and label) with a face at the tasting! Thank you for making a pinot with elegant restraint. There is a delicate, intriguing fruit/earth and young/wise tension in your wines that is always a treat.

P I - N O T A B L E S

(yes, I am a dork)

Arcadian Winery, Jill's Cuvee (2006)

California, Santa Maria, Solomon Hills

Pfendler Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (2007)

Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap

Archery Summit, Red Hills Estate (2006)

Oregon, Dundee Hills

Belle Pente, Belle Pente Vineyard (2006)

Oregon, Yamhill-Carlton

Sojourn Cellars, Sonoma Coast label and Sangiacomo Vineyard (2008)

California, Sonoma County

P L E A S A N T

S U R P R I S E S

A white! (shhhh)

Zotovich Family Vineyards '07 Chardonnay - a delightfully pleasant (and quite well-made) break from pinot

A baby!

An '08 barrel sample from Fess Parker's Ashley's Vineyard (pommard clone) - fresh and tasty :)

A kiwi!

Alana Estate's pretty pinot from Martinborough, New Zealand

A Humphrey Bogart!

Cono Sur's "20 Barrels" '07 pinot noir from Casablanca Valley, Chile - poured by Steve from Wine Exchange (love the OC representation!)

1997 Salon

What a treat it was to taste this beautiful champagne. Its distinguished texture and silencing complexity leave me with only brief copy and an image for you from their website:

Salon

I love this image and greatly anticipate my first taste tonight at the Wally's Delamotte & Salon tasting. Check out the link to watch the video about '97 Salon:

http://www.champagnesalon.com/1997/flash.php?LangueSite=en

Family Winemakers of California

This was my first experience at Family in  San Francisco at the Fort Mason Center. It was a great one thanks to...

1) My friend (and international distributor) JB Moresco who was no rookie. Our plan of attack was to explore spontaneously and taste more thoughtfully Day 1 and hit the destination producers we missed Day 1 plus a few extras, recommended by trusted palates, on Day 2.

2) Eating a full lunch at Greens (awesome vegetarian cafe around the corner from the Tasting in Fort Mason Center) prior to tasting both days: http://www.greensrestaurant.com/

3) Spitting everything. If you can't do this, cut the tasting short and go back to your favorites to "drink" a second pour over the last hour. Grab some bread or cheese and crakers to enjoy these sips.

4) Drinking water in between producers. A couple ounces is enough. This will keep you going when fatigue sets in from tasting, talking, standing, and fighting to maintain a healthy core body temp in the Fort Mason Center.

Summary (IMHO):

A LOT of wine and only a handful of standouts. High (unbalanced) alcohol, no mid/back palate, and green tannin showed consistently. And, sadly, in some renowned wines which I really looked forward to tasting. I've listed my "Best in Show" below. These are wines with above average complexity and balance (fruit, acid, alcohol, ripe tannin, oak positive), among their neighbors in CA. However, on an international scale, I can't commend them all on value (taste per dollar). But this is just the voice of one palate, which lacks a respectable wine budget and was trained on almost all Old World wines. 

I believe that there is high demand in the market for the style wine I tasted the past two days, at a lower price. "For the love of the game", I hope these wineries do well. And just because you don't LOVE all of the wines at a tasting doesn't mean it's a bust. I will always go to trade tastings because of the opportunity to meet the winemakers and sales/mkg peeps who are crazy passionate about their juice. Regional tastings showcasing hundreds of wineries are one of the best ways to exercise your the palate and build on your mental inventory of producers, appellations, and specific vineyards*.

(drumroll please)

B E S T   I N   S H O W . . .

Chardonnay

Arcadian, (Dierberg Vineyard) Santa Maria Valley, 2006

Fog Crest Vineyard, Russian River Valley, 2005

ZD Wines, Reserve, Napa Valley, 2007

Rose

Lynmar Estate, Rose of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2007

Pinot Noir

Arcadian, (Fiddlestix Vineyard) Santa Rita Hills, 2005

Ladera Vineyards, Russian River Valley, 2006

Clos Pepe, Santa Rita Hills, 2007

Cabernet Sauvignon

Parallel Wines, Reserve, Napa Valley, 2006

Kelleher, (Brix Vineyard, Oakville) Napa Valley, 2005

Peirson Meyer, (Versant Vineyard on Pritchard Hill) Napa Valley, 2005

Cabernet Franc

Pride Mountain Vineyards, Sonoma County, 2007

Cass Winery, Paso Robles, 2005

Petit Sirah

Robert Foley Vineyards, Napa Valley, 2006

Sirah

Enkidu Wine, Odyessy, Russian River Valley, 2006

BLENDS

L'Aventure, Cote-a-cote and Estate Cuvee, Paso Robles, 2006

Paloma, Merlot (15% Cabernet Sauvignon), (Spring Mountain) Napa Valley, 2007 (buy 2006)

X Winery & Amicus, Amicus Special Blend (51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot,10% Cabernet Franc), (Spring Mountain) Napa Valley, 2005

BEST VALUE Portfolio ($12-$20!)

Owl Ridge Wines, Dry Creek Valley/Sonoma Coast/Sonoma County/North Coast 

PARTYINMYMOUTH 

La Sirena Winery, Moscato Azul - Dry Muscat Canelli, (Calistoga) Napa Valley, 2007

Navarro Vineyards, Estate Dry Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley, 2006

*and cement my love for the Old World. Much has to change over here before that foundation starts to crack :)

Adelaida Cellars

Adelaida was the only winery I had visited before and one I sincerely looked forward to returning to. The hospitality we received at Adelaida was unmatched my first trip to Paso in December. I was there celebrating a friend's birthday - it was casual trip with no appointments or tastings with winemakers. We had no connections or pull. Only common tourist enthusiasm for tasting their wines.

At that time, Adelaida went out of their way to welcome us and made everyone in the group (from novice to professional) feel comfortable. They educated us about their wines and answered our questions. There was no hard sell on their wine club and we got the feeling that everyone who worked there LOVED their job. It also helped that their wines were top quality and well-balanced. (But don't things always taste better when you're surrounded by happy people?)

This trip we (not me, but Bobbyfox and "Charlie") scheduled a tasting appointment for us where they poured about 9 nine wines - including their pinot noir and cab reserve. As if we hadn't received enough VIP treatment from Paul (our gracious host at Adelaida this trip) already, he grabbed a few bottles and glasses after our tasting and we piled into his truck to have a toast from a scenic hilltop on their land. 

Literally breathtaking.

I will go back to Adelaida every time I'm in Paso and continue to buy their wines (this trip I purchased the '06 HMR Estate Pinot Noir and the '05 Viking Estate Vineyard Cab Reserve). And next time I may bring a giant fresh pineapple with me as an overdue thank you gift.

http://www.adelaida.com/

You CAN take the Newport Beach out of Newport Beach

The gang and Terry Hoage:

Terry (and Jennifer) Hoage Vineyards

Terry and Jennifer's tasting room was our second stop on Saturday. I wasn't sure what to expect from a champion NFL player who majored in genetics and has been making wine for the past seven years. What a career path! But he'd be the first person to have you believe his wife is the talented palate behind the operation and he just grows the grapes.

After meeting Terry and tasting (what's left of) his last release, he took us into the cellar for some barrel tastings. It was an educational experience I very much appreciated. He is a brilliant, patient, and curious human. He took the time to answer our micro questions about his winemaking techniques. The highlight was tasting the 08 barrel syrahs side by side and recognizing the difference the barrel makes on the nose and palate. One was Moreau and the other Taransaud Beaune. The Moreau let the syrah's signature dark fruit notes of blackberries and cassis shine. While the Taransaud Beaune presented a new nose of smoke, lively spice, and rolled along the palate to a savory maple bacon finish. Fascinating stuff.

When it comes time to taste his wines, Terry's sensitivity is to mouthfeel. He wants to make wines that embrace the palate and beckon another sip. His wines do this well and I particularly recognized it in the Estate Rose, "Bam Bam", and the Cuvee, "The Pick". I would love to try the Cuvee "5 Blocks" someday.

http://terryhoagevineyards.com/portfolio

L'Aventure Wine Tasting

Stephan Asseo, Bordeaux transplant and L'Aventure's owner and winemaker, restored my faith in balanced, disciplined Paso Robles wine. Prior to this trip, I had very high alcohol, low acidity, jammy, and generally klunky encounters with (benchmark) wines from this region. However, I always approach a new wine with an open mind and I was ready to be pleasantly surprised.

When we arrived at L'Aventure's tasting room at 10am Saturday morning (opens to the public at 11am), Stephan was sweeping the stoop outside his tasting room. The sign of an artist...we were in for a treat.

He greeted us humbly and then told us the story of his search for the right piece of land in California. His winemaking techniques are old world. His vines are (relatively) new. Plus, he has the freedom to work with any varietal, as the wine laws here are much more flexible than those in France. 

As we learned more about his style, I honed in on his focus around harvest time. It is not on the brix level (sugar level) of the grapes or, more generally, the ripeness of the fruit. Stephan picks his fruit when he believes the tannin to be ripe. Tannin is the skeleton that gives red wine its structure and ultimately connects, and supports, every other element. Choosing to harvest when "the tannin is ripe" is not a technical decision at the mercy of a number (like picking at "x" brix, or sugar, level in the berries). It's based on taste, experience, and the 6th sense of man who grew up in one of the most remarkable wine regions in the world. Ripe tannin sets a wine's "tannin" skeleton in perfect alignment. The fruit, alcohol, and acidity work their magic to fill it out. The result is a work of art. An integrated, disciplined, and memorable wine. I almost forgot to mention...it tastes fantastic. Like all of the wines at L'Aventure.

The Estate Cuvee had to be my favorite, but I also enjoyed his Estate Cote a Cote and Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Buy and drink or hold:

http://www.aventurewine.com/

Paso Robles Wine House

Last weekend I tasted my way through Paso Robles with a group of fellow cork dorks from Newport Beach and Laguna. Our social chair made the wise executive decision to rent a giant house with breathtaking views instead of all individually booking hotel rooms. 

http://www.pasoroblesvacationrentals.com/caroMio/

It was genius. And the house was ideal for cooking (only pictures do it justice), lounging (big comfy couches with an entertainment center), swimming (heated salt water pool), and stargazing (chaises and heat lamps). We were a 5 minute drive from town and also close to all of the wineries we visited. Halfway through the trip we even had a masousse come to the house to get our knots out (those barrel tastings are really back breaking...).

The highlight of the house for me was that feeling at the end of our days of going "home" together. I highly recommend this accommodation strategy.

Vacation rentals. So hot right now.

Voices For Children

Last night I volunteered to pour at the Voices For Children fundraiser...a 100 point wine tasting event at the gorgeous home of Jori Potiker and Michael Brown in Rancho Santa Fe. I was lucky enough to get to pour AND TASTE, as a friend was not able to make the event at the last minute.

Steve, Woody (thanks for the picture), and I were busy at the "France" table where we poured 1982 & 2000 Chateau Leoville-Las Cases, 1990 Chateau Latour, 2000 Chateau Pavie, 1989 La Misson Haut Brion, 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1998 Domaine de Marcoux CdP VV, 1998 Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque, and 1991 Chapoutier Cote Rotie la Mordoree.

My personal favorites were the Latour and La Turque. Thought the Mouton was starting to fall and the 2000 Pavie was a little big for me. 2000 Leoville was still young but perfect for those who love indulging in the primary flavors of Bordeaux.

I bounced around a few more tables after the tasting finished. Other standouts were the 1994 Bryant Family Cabernet (much more delicate and disciplined than the other cabs present 97 Shafer Hillside Select, 03 & 05 Quilceda Creek, etc). My favorite part of this event was that everyone got a card with assigned wines for a 1.5 ounce pour. I loved that there was no rush and you could taste in the order you prefer. The wines were well distributed so everyone got a taste of France (Bordeaux & Rhone), Italy (Barolo & Brunello), and the newbees (Cab & Shyrah/Shiraz). Thanks for planning a fabulous event, Robin. Hopefully, a lot of money was raised for this great charity! 

Judge Hutnick

I had my first experience judging wine today at the Orange County Home Wine Competition. Local wine makers made submissions to the following categories: red and white (single varietal or blend), fruit, and dessert. I judged 21 sangioveses and 8 barberas. At the home wine level, I was looking for

1) balance of fruit, acid, alcohol, and tannin

and

2) the wine to exhibit the nose and flavor profile of the varietal*

My panel agreed that there were a handful that achieved both - some more gracefully than others. We tasted and scored for three hours with no major breaks. My sense of smell and taste became fatigued around the 25th wine, so under 30 wines in 3 hours was about right to ensure fair and consistent results. I'm glad I was assigned to judge local expressions of varietals I normally only drink from Italy. It really made me appreciate what a talented winemaker can achieve (close to) anywhere in the world.

Thanks to all of the friendly people who said hi to the "new judge" and made me feel so welcome. And to the Miller family who showed me the ropes, Jan for the picture above, and John for his jacket. Hope to see you all next year!

*(we had one sangiovese that was well made wine that tasted great...but it tasted like zinfandel)

Wine Gallery

This is the best tasting room and wine shop in Corona Del Mar. I walked up last night to taste a few whites and reds and planned to return home, but the night took a turn for the better! I met a group that was having a reunion (UCLA) and chose Wine Gallery as their first stop for the night. Now scattered along the California coastline from San Francisco to San Diego, they see each other a few times a year - but it's clear they're all still close and always out to have a good time. We started talking about wine at the bar and the next thing you know we're polishing off a '05 Boillot (1er, Les Epenottes) burg, indulging in Crow Bar's melt-in-your-mouth lamb shank, and Chip's telling the famous "Del Taco story." That's a pretty strong ending to a random Monday night in CDM.